Machine for shaping uppers over lasts



July 14, 1931. A. BATES 1,813,983.

MACHINE FCR SHAPING UPPERS OVER LAS'IS Filed Nov. 20, 1532s 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 //v VENTUR.

QM 6M1 v July 14, 1931.

A.-BATES MACHINE FOR SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed Nov. 20. 1928 2 Sheds- Sheet 2 Patented July 14, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ARTHUR BATES, OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATIOLI OF NEN JERSEY MAGHIN E1 FOR SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Application filed November 20, 1928, Serial No. 3

This invention relates to machines for shaping uppers over lasts, and in some of its important aspects -more particularly to machines for thus operating upon stitchdown shoes or other footwearin the manufacture of which the upper, when conformed to the shape of the last, is not fastened to the bottom of the last. The invention is herein illustrated as applied toa machine for pullchines for operating upon shoes'of the particular character above mentioned.

In machines such as shown in the Letters Patent above referred to the pulling of the upper is effected by the combined movements of grippers and a shoe support or tread rest, the latter imparting to the last a lengthwise movement to cause the grippers to subject the upperto a forward pull in addition to their pull heightwise of the last. The pres ent invention, in one important aspect, provides a novel organization such as to effect a better lengthwise pulling or stretching of the upper than heretofore in response to such movement of the last, especially in operating upon shoes of the larger sizes. In the machine herein illustrated, in which grippers which grip the upper at the end of the toe and at the opposite sides of the forepart are operated to pull the upper through spring means which is yieldable in response to resistance of the upper to the force of the pull,

the tread rest is operated by mechanism which is independent of such yield or of the limitation thus imposed upon the movement of the grippers by the resistance of the upper. Irrespective, therefore, of such resistance as the grippers may encounter in pu1l ing the upper, for example, transversely of 20,564, and in Great Britain November 22, 1927.

the last, insurance is afforded that the upper will be pulled lengthwise'of the last With such force as is required for the best results.

In a further important aspect, the invention provides a novel organization including means for fastening the upper in such manner as to have special advantages in operating upon stitchdown shoes, although in this feature, asin others, the invention is not restricted in utility shoes of that particular kind; As herein illustrated, there is provided means adapted for operation, after the upper has been properly shaped by pulling it over the forepart of the last, to drive a fastening through the upper and into the forepart of the last exteriorly of the last bottom in such relation to the last and the upper as to permit the margm of the upper to project outwardlyas re quired for attaclnnent to the sole of astitchdown shoe without disturbing the fastening. More particularly, the machine shown has means for driving a tack into the toe end face of the last in a direction substantially parala the forepart of the last, i I

lel to the bottom of although the invention is not limited to the driving of a fastening in that particular location. For the purpose in view the construction illustrated comprises a manually controlled tacker carried by the toe gripper.

Included also in this part of the invention is means for forcing the gripper toward the last at the time when the fastening is driven, to insure that the portion of the upper which receives the fastening will be positioned close to the last.

The invention further provides novel means for controlling the toe gripper in such manner that it partakes, in part, of that rearward movement of the last whereby the up per is subjected to the lengthwise pull. The gripper is thus maintained in sufficientl close relation to the toe end of the last to shape the upper properly to the heightwise contour of the prise novel means for controlling relative closin movement of 'ri er 'aws herein ilto themanufacture of also to facilitate the driving of the fastening therefrom into the Lil lustrated as applied to the toe gripper; a novel toe gripper construction; novel means for controlling the side grippers in such manner as to avoid undue friction in their upper-pulling movements; novel means for operating the tread rest to impart to the forepart of the last a heightwise movement as well as lengthwise movement; and novel means for adjusting the force of a spring through which the pulling of the upper is effected.

The above and other features of the invention, including various novel details of construction and combinations of parts,- will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation of the upper portion of a machine in which the invention is embodied, showing the parts in the positions that they occupy before pulling over an upper; I

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the parts approximately in the positions that they occupy at the end of the upper-pulling and fastening operations, but with no shoe in the machine;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the toe gripper, showing also a portion of the shoe support or tread rest;

Fig. 4 is a view, at right angles to- Fig. 1, of mechanism for adjusting the force of the pull applied to the upper by the grippers;

Fig. 5 is a view showing in section the toe of a last with the adjacent machine parts in the positions that they occupy after the upper-fastening tack has been driven; and

Fig. 6 shows in greater detail a portion of the mechanism for operating and controlling the side grippers, as viewed from the right-hand side in Fig. 1.

In general similarity to the machine shown and described in the above-mentioned Letters Patent, the machine herein shown is provided with a column 10 on which is mounted a casting 12 having upwardly extending arms 14 and 16 for supporting various operating parts of the machine; and slidingly mounted inthis casting is a plunger 18 provided with a head 20 connected by mechanism hereinafter described to grippers for pulling the upper respectively at the end of the toe and at the opposite sides of the forepart in re sponse to downward movement of the plunger. It is contemplated that, in common with the usual present construction of machines of the general type illustrated, the machine shown will be operated by power, and there is accordingly provided a power-operated lever 22 connected bymechanism more particularly hereinafter described to the plunger 18. This lever is pivoted at 24 on an arm 26 extending from the column 10 and is operated through a link 28 by an eccentric 30 on a power-driven shaft 32. Any suitable well-known type of clutch mechanism (not shown) may be used to operate and control the shaft 32, preferably in such manner that the machine will come to a stop after pulling the upper over the last and before the fastening tack is driven and will be again started by the operator after the driving of the tack to cause it to complete its cycle and release the shoe.

Similarly also to the machine shown in the above-mentioned Letters Patent, the machine illustrated is provided with a shoe support including a tread rest 34 upon which the last with the upper assembled thereon is positioned bottom downward and by movement of which the last is carried rearwardl y (i. e.-, toward the left in Figs. 1 and 2) relatively to the toe and side gripper-s to assist in stretching the upper lengthwise, the tread rest having an upwardly curved front end to abut against the toe end face of the last. The tread rest 34 is supported near its front end on a stud 36 which is mounted in a supporting bar 38 and is adjustable to vary the height of the front end of the tread rest, and both the bar 88 and the tread rest are pivotally supported at the rear end of the latter upon a link 40 pivoted on the arm 14 to swing in directions lengthwise of the last and shoe in the same general manner as illustrated in the Letters Patent mentioned. The bar 38 at its front end is pivotally supported on the upper ends of a pair of parallel levers 42 which are pivoted at 44 upon a bracket 46 upstanding from a fixed bar 48 mounted in the arms 14 and 16.

The lower ends of the levers 42 in the construction shown are not operativel-y connected to the gripper-operating head 20 as heretofore, but are connected to operating mechanism the movement of which is unrestricted by such limitation of the extent of the movement f the head 20 as may result from resistance of the upper to. the force of the pull to insure proper lengthwise stretching of the upper by the movement of the tread rest. This operating mechanism comprises a forked draw-bar 49 pivot-ally connected to the lower ends of the levers 42 and operated by a bell-crank lever 50 pivoted at 52 on a bracket 54 on the column 10. One end of the bar 49' is arranged to abut at times againsta block 56 pivoted at 58 in the forked end of one arm the bell-crank 50, and extending from the bar 49 tlirou'gh the block 56 in sliding engagement with the block is a rod 60 on which is a spring 62 abutting at one end against the block 56 and at its other end t a nut 64 adjustable on the rod 60 to vary the compression of the spring. The bell-crank 50 is operated by a link 66 connected to the poweroperated lever 22'. it will thus be seen that, in time relation to the operation of the grippers by the movement of the head 20, the tread rest 3% receives its upper-stretching movement in response to movement of the bar 49 toward the right (Figs. 1 and 2) effected through the spring 62, the limit of such movement being independent of the limit of the movement of the grippers and the force thus applied to the last by the tread rest being variable in accordance with the adjustment of the stress of the spring 62 by the nut 64.

In addition to the rearward movement above described, the tread rest in the con struction herein shown receives also an upward swinging movement about its connection to the link 40. For this purpose, the upper end portions of the levers 42 in the starting position of the machine are forwardly inclined relatively to the bar 38, so that in their swinging movement to carry the tread rest rearwardly they approach position more nearly perpendicular to the bar and thereby raise the front end of the bar and of the tread rest supported thereon. In this manner the tread rest co-opcrates with the toe gripper in pulling the upper down over the toe end of the last.

The toe gripper comprises an upper jaw 68 and a lower jaw 70 pivoted at 72 on the upper jaw. The upper jaw 68 has a clownward extension pivoted by means of a pin 74 on a rod 76 slidingly mounted in a bore in the fixed bar 48, this red having at its lower end a pin-and-slot connection 78, 80 with the gripper-operating head and havingalso near its lower end a flange 82 ar ranged to. abut at times against the lower face of the bar 48. The position of the lower jaw relatively to the upper jaw 68 is controlled in part by a bar 84: pivotally connected at its upper end by a'pin 86 to the lower jaw to form atoggle there ith and having at its lower end a rod 88 extending clownwardly through a bore in a sleeve member 90 which is pivoted at 92 on a rod 94 fixed in the gripper-operating head 20. l/Vhen the parts are in starting position the lower end of the bar 84 is arranged to abut against the sleeve member 90, as illustrated in Fig. 1, the aw 70 thus being held in open position. 7 A spring 96 connecting the pins 74 and 8G is arranged to hold the rod 76 and the toe gripper jaws supported thereon at the limit of upward movement determined by the flange 82 in engagement with the bar i8 when the parts are in starting position, by reason of the fact that the bar 8% at that time is held by the sleeve member 90 against downward movement and therefore the saring 96 is effective to pull upwardly on te pin 74.

It will be further seen that the spring 96, by-itsaction on the pin 86, tends to straighten the toggle formed by the lower jaw 70 and the bar 84 and thereby to impart closing movement to the jaw 70 and also to swing both jaws about the axis of the pin 74' to ward the left (Fig. 1). The position of the toe gripper with respect to the last-mentioned swinging movement is determined initially by a stop-screw 98 in the end of the tread rest-supporting bar 38, against which thedownward extensionofthe upper aw 68 abuts, this screw also serving in. co-operation with the bar 8% to cause the jaws to be maintained in open relation in the starting position of the machine. In operation the downward movement of the gripper-operating head 20 which carries the rod" 94: permits closing movement to be imparted to the jaw 70 by the spring 96, by reason of the downward movement of the sleeve member 90 against which the bar 84 abuts, such closing movement of the jaw being effected during'the relative movement that occurs initially be tween the head 20 and the rod 76 because of the pin-and-slot or lost-motion connection 7 8, between these parts. In this manner the toe end of the upper is gripped by the toe gripper jaws. By its continued downward movement the head 20 then pulls the red 76 downwardly and thereby causes the t gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last.

Coordinately with such operation of the toe gripper, the tread rest 34 and its supporting bar 38 are moved rearwardly, i. e., toward the left (Fig. 1), as hereinabove described, thereby imparting to the stop-screw 98 movement in a direction away from the toe gripperjaw 68. This permits the toe gripper to follow to some extent the rearward movement of the tread rest by swinging about the axis of the pin 74, partly in response to the action of the spring 96 on the gripper and partly by reason. of the strong downward pull on the upper effected through the positive connection between the gripper and the head 20. The toe gripper thus maintains a substantially close relation to the toe end of the last notwithstanding the rearward movement of the tread rest, which contributes to a satisfactory conformation of the toe end of the upper to the contourof the toe end of the last. Such swinging movement of the toe gripper in the direction of the rearward movement of the tread rest is adj ustably limited to a movement of less extent thanthat of the tread rest by means of a collar 100 mounted on the rod 88 below the sleeve member and adjustable lengthwise of the red by a nut 102 to provide a variable amount of lost motion between the collar and the sleeve member. As the sleeve memb r 90 is carried downwardly by the head 20" it thus eventually engages the collar and through the bar 84 limits the extent to which the gripper can swing toward the toe end of the last;

It is preferred to utilize a toe gripper so formed and mounted that the jaw 68, which engages the outer face of the upper, will grip the upper in a plane substantially or approximately parallel to the bottom face of the forepart of the last initially and throughout the operation of the gripper on the upper; and the extent of the downward movement of the gripper is preferably so determined in relation to the upward movement of the tread rest that at the end of the upper-pulling operation the outturned margin of the toe end of the upper is substantially or approximately in the general plane of the bottom of the forepart of the last. It is also preferable for some kinds of work to use a toe gripper so constructed as not to localize the pull at the extreme end of the toe, and there is accordingly herein shown a gripper having comparatively wide gripping aws provided with serrated gripping faces 10% (Fig. located at opposite sides of intermediate plane nongripping portions, the front edges of the jaws being curved to conform approximately to the outline in plan of the toe end face of an average last. The pull is thus applied at the corners of the toe while the portion of the upper located centrally of the toe is not subjected directly to lengthwise strail This facilitates or augments the pocket-forming action of the gripper in pulling the upper down over the toe end of the last. The central plane face of the upper jaw is preferably at the level of the ridges of the serrations on the jaw, so that this portion of the may act upon the central portion of the upper as a retarding wiper plate in such relative movement between the toe gripper and the central ungripped portion of the upper as may occur during the pull. As illustrated, the lower jaw 70 has serrated portions opposite to those of the upper aw, and between these portions has a central plane face which, as indicated in Fig. 5, is recessed below the level of the serrations, so that it does not grip the intermediate portion of the toe end of the upper.

The means for pulling the upper at the sides of the forepart comprises opposite side grippers and operating means the construction of which is, for the most part, substantially as disclosed in the Letters Patent hereinbefore mentioned. Mounted upon the fixed bar 18 is a sleeve 106 adjustable along the bar by means of a threaded spindle 108. Pivoted at 110 to ears at the opposite sides of this sleeve are side gripper supports 112. These supports are adjustable about their pivots 110 toward and away from each other by a manually operable screw 11 1. Each of he side grippers comprises a pair of gripper jaws 116 one of which is fast on a stem 118 :lidably mounted for upward and downward movement in the support 112 and normally upheld by a spring 120. The other gripper jaw is connected to a closing rod 121 (Fig. 6) the lower end of which is connected by a link 122 to a gripper-closing and operating crossbar 124 mounted on the rod 94 of the head 20, substantially as disclosed in the abovementioned Letters Patent. It will thus be understood that the opposite side grippers are first closed and are then operated to pull the upper by a downward movement of the head in time relation to the operation of the toe gripper and that of the tread rest, the side grippers engaging the upper in fixed 10- cations lengthwise of the last determined by the adjustment of the spindle 108 and having no movement lengthwise of the last in the up er-pulling operation. It is desirable that, once the side grippers have gripped the upper, no rearward movement of the last under the action of the tread rest shall cause the upper to slide rearwardly through the si "e gripper aws. To prevent such sliding of the upper one or both jaws of each side gripper, including preferably the inner jaw, are serrated heightwise of the last as well as lengthwise thereof.

111 machines of the general type illustrated, as heretofore constructed, the stems 118 of the side grippers have been mounted for sliding movement in upper and lower bosses integral with the side supports 112. In view of the lateral strain upon the side grippers which occurs by reason of the lengthwise movement of the last effected by the action of the tread rest, the present invention provides an improved construction such as to avoid possibility of binding of the side gripper stems 118 in their guides in the operation of these grippers. This construction includes a bearing member or guide 126 (Fig. 6) for the lower end portion of each stem 118 and in which the stem is slidingly mounted, this guide being pivoted at 128 on the inner side of the corresponding support 112, so as to permit the guide to turn about an axis extending laterally of the last. The sliding bearings heretofore provided for the upper end portions of the stems 118 are dispensed with, and in place thereof a member 130 is clamped to the upper end of each stem. The springs 120 hereinabove mentioned are seated at their lower ends on the guides 126 and at their upper ends engage collars 132 fast on the stems 118. Each support 112 has an integral bracket member 13 1 extending therefrom upwardly and toward the left (Figs. 1 and 2), and link members 136 are pivoted at 138 to these members and at 1910 to the members 130 above referred to as clamped to the gripper stems 118. The members 130 thus move up and down with the side grippers under control of the links 136 which extend lengthwise of the last, and any side strain upon the side grippers due to the pull of the upper thereon in a direction lengthwise of the last is taken by the pivots 138 and 140 instead of by fixed guides as heretofore. The links 136 have extensions 142 provided with stop screws 1&4 for engaging the bracket inembers 134 when the side grippers are raised as shown in 1 to limit adjustably the upward movement of these grippers.

Since in moving between raised and lowered positions the side gripper stems 118 have a slight swinging movement length Wise of the last under control oi the links 136, the guides 126 have a slight turning movement about the axes of their pivots 128 and the extreme lower ends of the gripper stems and of the closing rods-121 also have a corresponding movement in a curved path. Such movement, however, is very small and is allowed for by a slight slackness in the joints of the links 122 which connect the rods 121 to the bar 124. m

For transmitting movement from the power-operated lever 22 to the gripper-operating plunger 18, which may be termed an upper-pulling member, there are provided .yieldable connections which, in accordance with one of'the objects of the invention, are so constructed that they may be readily adjusted at any time in the operation of the machine to vary the force of the pull applied to the grippers without danger that the operator may soil his hands in making the adjustment, as would be objectionable, for example, inoperating-upon liight colored uppers. For this purpose the lever 22 has pivota-lly mounted in its forked outer end a block 146 ig. 4) through a bore in which extends a rod 148 having on its upper end a head 150 connected by a link 152 to the plunger 18. 'Itwill thus be seenthat by engagement of the block 146 with the head 150 the plunger 18 is raised positively by the lever/22 to return the grippers to starting position. Mounted on the rod 148 is a spring 154 which rests upon a nut 156 on the lower end of the rod. Slidingly mounted on the rod at the upper end of the spring is a cap 158 connected by two links 160 toanadjusting lever 162 pivotedat 164 on the column 10, this leverhaving .at its front end a handle 166 projecting forwardly from the column. The lever 162 has pivotedupon it a springcontrolled pawl 168 which is arranged to engage any one of a series of ratchet teeth 170 formed on thelower end portion of a bar 172 the upper end of which is pivotally connected to the lever 22. The pawl 168 is provided with an arm 174 extending outside of the column 10, and the operator, iy engaging this arm and the handle 166 with his hand or foot, may readily adjust the tension of the spring 154by setting the pawl 168 to engage different teeth 170 on the bar 172. It will be understood that in operating the grippers to pull the upper, thejlever 22, in any adjustment of the parts, actsthrough the bar 172, the pawl 168, the lever 162, the links 160 and the cap 158 to bring downward pressure to bear onthe spring 154 which is .lowalevel.

connected to the plunger 18 by the means described.

I For fastening the 'upper in pulled-over position at the end of the toe, as is desirable in order to prevent the upper from drawing away from the toe end of the last after removal from the machine, there is provided means for driving a tack 2% (Fig. 5) through the upperand into thetoe end face of the last in a location above the outturned margin or flange of the upper and in a direction substantially parallel to this flange and to the bottom face of the forepart ot' the last.

tending through a driver passage in the jaw v68. F Ors-upplying tacks to the driver passage the jaw 68 is provided-with an opening 182 extending downwardly and forwardly toward the front edge or" the jaw and into which tacks may be dropped by hand or introduced by any suitable well-known type of tack-feeding mechanism (not shown). The upturned front end of the tread rest 84 is provided with a slot 184 midway between its opposite sides inposition to aline with the driver passage in the jaw 68 at the time when the tack is driven. In order to hold the tack in the driver passage until it is driven out by the driver 180, there is provided a detent the lower end of the detent being bevelled so that it will be pushed up by the advancing I tack and driver. The detent 186 by its beveled end assists alsoin determinin the position of thetack as the tack is driven. At

the lower end of the slot 184 the tread rest has a sloping surface, as shown in F 5,

adapted to deflect the tack upwardly into the last if by chance it should be driven at too For operatingthe driver bar 178 there is pivotally mounted on an extension of the bar 48 an operating lever 190 connected at upper end to the driver bar by a link 192 and under the influence of a spring 194 which tends to force the driver bar in the tack- .driving direction. For holding the operating lever 190 in its initial position with the driver bar retracted, as illustmted in Fig. 1.

there is pivotally mounted on the extension of the bar 48 a hand lever 196 one arm of which is shaped'to serve as a latch 198 in engagement with a square pin 200 on the lever 190. A spring 202tends to hold the lever .196 in position to maintain the driver bar retracted.

When it is desired to drive thetack, the operator releases the lever 190 by movement of the hand lever 196. For returning thelever 190 into position to be held by the latch 198 there is mounted on the block '56 hereinbefore referred to as carried by the bell-crank lever 50 a roll 204 which by engagement with the lower end of the lever 190 moves the lever from the position illustrated in Fig. 2 into that illustrated in Fig. 1 in response to movement of the bell-crank lever 50 in an anticlockwise direetion as the parts are returned to starting position.

On the outer end of the driver bar 178 1 there is provided a flange 208 adapted to contact with an opposing face 210 on the outer end of the extension 176 of the gripper jaw 68 as the driver approaches the limit of its driving stroke. The effect of such contact under the force of the driver-operatin spring 194: is to impel the toe gripper towarc the toe end of the last, ifit is not already as close to the last as permitted by its controlling connections, as further insurance that the toe gripper will position the toe end of the upper close to the toe curvature of the last at the time when the tack is driven.

A relation between the toe gripper and the tread rest such that the tack will be driven in y the desired position in the toe end of the last at a comparatively short distance from the bottom face of the last may be suitably determined fc-r most classes of work by proper adjustments of the springs 62 and 154 through which the tread rest and the grippers are respectively operated. If desired, however, suitable limiting means may in addition be provided for insuring a definite relation between the toe gripper and the tread rest at the time when the tack is driven.

In the operation of the machine, briefly summarized, the operator positions a last with an upper thereon upon-the shoe support or tread rest 34 and arranges the margin of the upper within the open toe and side gripper jaws, turning the margin outwardly at the toe in substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the forepart of the last. He then starts the machine in operation. In the first part of the cycle of the machine the gripper-operating head 20 is moved downwardly by its operating mechanism including the spring 154:, and in response to the first part of this downward movement of the head the toe and side gripper jaws are closed upon the upper. It will be understood that the closing of the side gripper jaws, before the downward movement of these grippers begins, is elfected by the connections between the bar 12% and the closing rods 121,,sub stantially as in the construction disclosed in the Letters Patent hereinbefore mentioned. The closing movement of the toe gripper jaw 70 occurs during the lost-motion between the head 20 and the gripper-carrying rod 76 provided for by the pin-and-slot connection 78, 80, and is effected by the spring 96 in response to the downward movement of the sleeve member which controls the bar 84:. n

In the continued downward movement of the head 20 the toe and side grippers are moved downwardly to pull the upper, the spring 154; yielding when the resistance of the upper becomes great enough to overcome the force of the spring. Simultaneously with the pulling movement of the grippers movement is imparted to the tread rest at through the connections hereinbefore described to carry the last rearwardly and also to elevate its forepart, thereby causing the toe and side grippers to impart to the upper a forward lengthwise pull. The extent of such movement of the tread rest is independent of the yield of the gripper-operating spring 15%, thus insuring that a proper lengthwise pull will be imparted to the upper regardless of the resistance of the upper to the pull of the grippers heightwise of the last, especially the transverse pull effected by the side grippers. As the tread rest receives its rearward movement, the movement of the stop member 98 therewith releases the toe gripper and thereby permits the latter to swing in a direction toward the toe end of the last, partly in response to the action of the spring 96 thereon and partly by reason of the action of the upper upon the gripper in the downward pulling movement of the gripper. In this manner the toe gripper jaws are maintained in sufficiently close relation to the toe end of the last to cause them to conform the upper effectively to the contour of the toe heightwise of the last. The swinging movement of the. toe gripper toward the last is, however, limited to a portion only of the extent of the movement of the last by the action of the sleeve member 90 upon the collar 100 carried by the bar 84, so that the rearward movement of the last results in increasing the forward. pull of the toe gripper on the upper as well as in effecting a forward pull by the action of the side grlppers.

It will be understood that at the end of the pulling movement above described the toe gripper and the last are positioned in a relation to each other substantially as indicated in Fig. 5, with the margin of the upper at the toe outturned in substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the foropart of the last and substantially or approximately in the plane of the bottom of the forepart. At this point in theoperation the machine comes automatically to a stop. A tack having previously been introduced into the passage 182 of the toe gripper jaw 68, the operator then moves the lever 196 to release the tack-driver-operating lever 190, and in response to the action of the spring 194 tack is then driven into the toe end face of the last T in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last and to the outturned margin of the upper, as illustrated in Fig. 5, this tack being driven within the angle formed by the outturned margin of the upper and the body of the upper and so arranged that the outturned margin may there-- after be positioned in that relation against a sole mounted on the last while the tackis in place. As the tack is driven, the flange 208 of the driver bar 178 engages the face 210 of the toe gripper jaw 68 with a tendency to'force the toe gripper toward the toe end of the last to insure that the upper will be positioned'close to the toe end face of thelast and that the tack will be properly driven to the distance required, such movement of the toe gripper, however, being limited by the action oi the collar 100 upon the sleeve90 so-- that the tack will be left protruding'far enough to permit it to be withdrawn when desired, as during the operation of sewing the outturned margin of the upper to the sole.

Afterthe tack has thus been driven, the

, operator again starts the machine and the parts are returned to starting positions, the grippers thereby releasing the margin of the upper. In this return of the parts to starting positions the. roll 204 by itsengagement with the lower'end of the lever 190 returns thislever andthe parts connected thereto into position to be again caught and'h-eld by the latch 198.

Having described the invention, what- I claim as new and'desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is ll In= a machine of the class described, grippers for gripping 'an'upper respectively atthe toe end and at the opposite sides of a last, means-for imparting to said grippers upper-pulling movement heightwise of the lastof variable extent depending upon the resistance of the upper to the'for'ce of-the pull, and means for impartingto-the last-a lengthwise movement unrestricted" byisuch limitation of the movement of'the' gripper-s to cause the the grippers to subject-the upper to a forward'pull.

2.'In a machine of the class-described, grippersfor gripping an upper respectively at the toe end and'at the opposite sides eta last, a member connected to the several gripp'ersfor operating'them to pull the upper heightwise of the last, means for operating said member including a spring yieldable in response to resistance of the upper'to the force of the pull, and automatic means-for imparting to the last in time relation to the movement of the grippers a lengthwise movement unr'estricted by the yield of said spring to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a forward pull.

In a machineoit the class described, grippers for gripping an upper respectively at thetoe endand' atthe opposite sides of a last, a member connected'to 'the'several grip pers for operating'them to p'ull theupper, a tread rest, and poweroperatedmeans separately connected to said"member and the tread rest respectiv ly for imparting upper-pulling: movement to said member and tor impartlng to the tread rest movement t'o cau'sethe grippers tosubject theupper toadditio'nal cJuding a'spring yielda-ble'in'response to 'resistance of the upper to the force of the pull, and separate connectionsbetween said'memher and the tread rest for imparting to the tread rest movement unrestricted by the yield ofsaid spring to carrythe last rearwardly and thereby cause the the upper to a forward pull;

5. In a-machine of the class described, a tread rest for positioning a last with an'upper thereon, grippers for per respectively at thetoe-end and at the opposite sides of'the last, anoperating member, and'separate trains of operatingmechanism between said member and the grippers and the tread rest respectively for 'impartin'g'to the grippers upper-pullingmovement heightwise of the last and forimparting .to-the tread rest movement to carry theilast rear wardly and thereby cause the grippers tofsubject the upper to a forward pull, each of said trains'ofmechanismincluding a spring indcpendently yiel'dable inresponse'to resistance of'the upper to the force of the pull".

6. In a machine ofthe'class described, atread rest for positioning jaflast with anupper thereon, grippers for gripping the'upper respectively at the toe end" and at the opposite sidesof'the last, an operating member, and separate trains of operating mechanism between said member and the grippers and the grippers upper-pulling movement heightwise'of the last and for imparting; to the tread rest movement to carry the last'rearwardly and therebycause the grippers to subgrippers' to subject the tread rest respectively forimpartingxto,

gripping: the upinc ject the upper to a forward'pull, eachof'said trains of mechanism including'aspringindependently adjustable to vary the amount of force applied in pulling the upper.

7. In a machine of the classi described, grippers for gripping an upper respectively at the toe end and at the opposite sides of last, means for imparting to :said'grippers upper-pulling movement heightwise oi the last of variable extent depending upon the resistance of the upper to the-force of the pull, and means-for imparting; to the-last a lengthwisemovement unrestricted by" such limitation ofthemovement of the grippers to cause the'gri'ppers to subject the upper to: a 1 forward pull, said: last name'd means in eluding a spring adjustable to vary the amount of force applied to the last.

8. In a machine of the class described, a tread rest for positioning a last with an upper thereon, grippers for gripping the upper respectively at the toe end and at the opposite sides of the last, a power shaft, a lever positively operated by said power shaft, connections between said lever and the grippers for imparting to the grippers upperpulling movement heightwise of the last including a spring yieldable in response to re sistance of the upper to the force of the pull, separate connections between said level and the tread rest for imparting to the tread rest movement to carry the last rearwardly and thereby cause the grippers to subject the upper to a forward pull.

9. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, means for imparting to said gripper upper-pulling movement heightwise of the last of variable extent depending upon the resistance of the upper to the force of the pull, and means for imparting to the last a lengthwise movement unrestricted by such limitation of the movement of the gripper to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull.

10. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, means for imparting to said gripper u 'iper-pulling movement heightwise of the last including a spring yieldable in response to resistance of the upper to the force of the pull, and means for imparting to the last a lengthwise movement unrestricted by the yield of said spring to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull.

11. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper at the toe end of a last with said margin outturncd in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last, means for imparting to said gripper upperpulling movement heightwise of the last of *ariable extent depending upon the resistance of the upper to the force of the pull, and means for imparting to the last movement unrestricted by such limitation of the movement of the gripper to cause the gripper to subject the upper to additional strain.

12. In a machine of the class described, a tread rest for positioning a last with an up per thereon, a gripper for gripping the margin of the upper at the toe end of the last with'said margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forcpart of the last, an operating member, connections between said member and the gripper for imparting to the gripper upperpulling movement heightwise of the last including a spring yieldablein response to re sistance of the upper to the force of the pull, and connections between said member and the tread rest for imparting to the tread rest and the last movement unrestricted by the yield of said spring to cause the gripper to subject the upper to additional strain.

13. In a machine of the class described, a gripper and a tread rest each movable in a direction to cause the gripper to subject an upper to strain over a last positioned by the treadrest, an operating member, and separate trains of operating mechanism between said member and the gripper and the tread rest respectively each including a spring independently yieldable in response to resistance of the upper to the strain applied.

14. In a machine of the class described, a gripper and a tread rest each movable in a direction to cause the gripper to subject an upper to strain over a last positioned by the tread rest, an operating member, and separate operating connections between said member and the gripper and the tread rest respectively including in the tread rest operating connections a spring adjustable to vary the s'rain applied to the upper by the movement of the tread rest.

15. In a machine of the class described, a toe gripper, opposite side grippers, means for effecting relative movement of said toe and side grippers and a last heightwise of the last to pull an upper over the last and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a forward pull, and controlling means for the toe gripper constructed to permit it to partake in part only of the rearward movement of the last.

16. In a machine of the class described, a toe gripper, opposite side grippers, means for moving said toe and side grippers heightwise of a last to pull an upper over the last, automatic means for imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement in time relation to such movement of the grippers to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a forward pull, the toe gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and means for limiting such movement of the toe gripper to a portiononly of the extent of the movement of the last.

17. In a machine of the class described, a toe gripper, opposite side grippers, means for effecting relative movement of said toe and side gripper and a last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a forward pull, the toe gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and means for limiting such movement of the toe gripper to a portion only of the extent of the movement of the last.

18. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end;

of a last, means forxeflecting relative movement of said gripper and the last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, said gripper being IIIOV? able in a. direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, a member connected to one of the gripper jaws to form a toggle therewith, av spring connected to the joint of said toggle for imparting closing movement to said jaw and tending also to swing the gripper in a direction toward the toe end of the last, and means arranged to act through said member to control closing movement of said aw and to limit the movement of the gripper with the last to a portion only of the extent of the rearward movement of the last.

'19. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, means for effecting relative movement of said gripper and the last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, a bar connected to one of the jaws of said gripper for controlling relative closing movement of the jaws, and a stop arranged to control said bar to limit the movement of the gripper with the last to a portion only of the extent of the movement of the last.

20. In a. machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, means for effecting relative movement of said gripper and the last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and stop mechanism for limiting such movement of the gripper to a portion only of the extent of the movement of the last, said stop mechanism being adjustable to vary the extent of such movement of the gripper' relatively to the extent of the movement of the last.

21. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, a tread rest movable to impart to the last a lengthwise rearward movement and also a heightwise movement relatively to said gripper to cause the gripper to pull the upper forwardly and over the toe end of the last, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to such rearward movement of the last, and means for limiting such movement of. the

gripper to a portion only of the extent of the I movement of the last.

2-2. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, a tread rest movable to impart to the last a lengthwise rearward movement and also a heightwisc movement relatively to said gripper to cause thegripper to pull the upper forwardly and over the toe end o'f'the last, means for imparting to said gripper upper-pulling movement eightwise of the last in time relation to the movement of the tread rest, and controlling means for said gripper so constructed take in part only of the rearward movement of the last while moving heightwise of the last to pull the upper over the too,

23. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, a tread rest, means for imparting to said tread rest movement to carry the last rearwardly from said gripper to cause the gripper to subject the upperto a forward pull, a gripper-operatingmember movable to impart to said gripper upperpulling a movement heightwise of the last in time rela: tion to the movement of the tread rest, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and mechanism carried by said gripper-operating member for limiting such movement of the gripper to a portion only of the extentof the movement of the last.

24. In a machine of the class described, agripper comprising jaws relatively movable to grip an upper at the toe end of a last, a tread rest, means for imparting to said tread rest movement to carry the last rearwardly away from said gripper to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, the gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to such rearward movement of the last, a member for imparting to the gripper movement heightwise of the last to pull the upper, a lost-motion connection between said member and the gripper, spring means controlled by said member for effecting relative closing movement of the gripper jaws at the time of the lost-motion, and an additional lostmotion connection between said member and the gripper for thereafter limiting the movement of the gripper toward the toe end of the last to a portion only of the extent of the rearward movementof the last. I

25. In a machine for pulling over the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means' for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of agripper for gripping the upper at the toe end of the last, said gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the margin of the upper with said. margin outturiied wit-h respect to the end face of the last and constructed to concentrate the gripping pros as to cause it to parsure; substantially in locations spaced apart widthwise of the last, means for efiecting relatlve movement of sald gripper and the last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the'last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and means for limiting such movement of the gripper to a port-ion only of the extent of the movement of the last.

26'. In a machine for pulling over the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a gripper for gripping the upper at the toe end of the last, said gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the margin of the upper with said margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last and having their ends curved laterally of the last in substantial conformity to the curvature of the end of the last in that direction, means for effecting relative movement of said gripper and the last heightwise of the last to pull the upper and for also imparting to the last lengthwise rearward movement to cause the gripper to subject the upper to a forward pull, said gripper being movable in a direction toward the toe end of the last in response to the rearward movement of the last, and means for limiting such movement of the gripper to a portion only of the extent of the movement of the last.

27. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a gripper comprising jaws relatively movable to grip the margin of the upper at the toe end of the last with said margin outturned with respect to the end face of the last, a member connected to one of said aws to form a toggle therewith, a spring connected to said toggle for imparting closing movement to said jaw, and means arranged to act through said member to control the closing of the jaw.

28. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a gripper comprising jaws relatively movable to grip the margin of the upper at the toe end of the last with said margin outturned with respect to the end face of the last, said gripper being mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last, a spring connected to one of said jaws for imparting closing movement to the jaw and tending also to swing the gripper in a direction toward the toe end of the last, means connected to said jaw for controlling its closing movement, and additional means for controlling the gripper with respect to its swinging movement.

29. In a machine for pulling over the up-i pers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon of a toe gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the upper with its margin outturned with respect to the end face of the last, said gripper jaws being constructed substantially to concentrate their gripping pressure on the margin of the upper in locations spaced apart widthwise of the last.

30. In a machine for pulling over the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a toe gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the upper with its margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last, said gripper jaws having serrated gripping portions for gripping the upper in locations spaced apart widthwise of the last; and plane faces between said serrated portions.

31. In a machine for pulling over the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a toe gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the upper with its margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last, said gripper jaws having serrated gripping portions for gripping the upper in locations spaced apart widthwise of the last, the aw which engages the outer face of the upper having between its serrated portions a plane upper-engaging face at substantially the same level as the ridges of its serrations, and the other jaw being recessed between its serrated portions to provide a space between it and the margin of the upper in that location.

32. In a machine for pulling over the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a toe gripper comprising jaws arranged to grip the upper with its margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last, said jaws being so constructed as to extend across the toe from side to side with their ends curved laterally of the toe in approximate conformity to the lateral curvature of the toe end face of the last and being further constructed substantially to concentrate their gripping pressure on the upper in locations spaced apart widthwise of the toe.

33. In a machine for pulling uppers over lasts, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of a toe gripper comprising a pair of jaws constructed to grip the margin of the upper about the toe of the last and substantially to concentrate their gripping pressure at the corners of the toe.

34. In a machine for pulling uppers over it c c rgsaaess lasts, the combination with means for positioning a last with an upper thereon, of atoe gripper comprising a pair of jaws constructed to grip the margin of the upper about the toe of the last, said jaws having serrated gripping portions for gripping the upper in locations spaced apart widthwise of the last and plane faces between said serrated portions.

'35. In a machine of the class described, grippers for gripping an upper at the opposite sides of a: last, means for moving said grippers heightwise of the last to pull the upper, means for also effecting relative movement of said grippers and the last lengthwise of the last to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a lengthwise pull, and means for guiding said grippers in their movement heightwise of the last, said guiding 0 means comprising, for each gripper, a link extending lengthwise of the last and pivotally connected to the gripper, said link being mounted for swinging movement heightwise of the last in the upper-pulling movement 5. of the gripper.

36. In a machine of the class described, grippers for gripping an upper at the opposite sides of a last, means for moving said grippers heightwise of the last to pull the upper, means for also effecting relative movement of said grippers and the last lengthwise of the last to cause the grippers to subject the upper to a lengthwise pull, and means for guiding said grippers in their movement heightwise of the last, said guiding means comprising, for each gripper, a bearing member mounted to turn about an axis extending laterally of the last in a location comparatively remote from the last and in which the gripper is slidingly movable, and alink connected to the gripper in a location nearer the last thansaid bearing member and mounted to swing heightwise of the last in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper.

37. In a machine of the class described, grippers for gripping an upper at the opposite sides of a last, means for moving said grippers heightwise of the last to pull the upper, and means for guiding said grippers in their upper-pulling movement, said guiding means comprising, for each gripper, a bearing member mounted to turn about an axis extending laterally of the last and in 5 which the gripper is slidingly movable, and

a link connected to the gripper in a difien ent location from said bearing member and mounted to swing heightwise of the last in the'upper-pulling movement oi the gripper.

38. In a machine of the class described, grippers for gripping an upper at the opposite sides of a last, means for moving said grippers heightwise of the last to pull the upper, and meansfor guiding said grippers in their upper-pulling movement, said guiding means comprising, for each gripper, a

bearing member mounted to turn about an axis extending laterally ofthe last in a11ocation comparatively remote from the last and in which the gripper is sliding-1y movable, a collar secured to the'gripper to move therewith in a location nearer the last than the bearing member, a link extending lengthwise of the last and pivot-ally connected toof the last in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper and in the reverse movement thereof, and means arranged to act on said link to limit such reverse movement of the gripper.

40. In a machine of -the class described, a

gripper movable topull an upper over a last,

a rotatable bearing, member in which said gripper is mounted to slide in its pull-ing movement, and a swingingliink connected to the gripper to assist in guiding it in'it's-movement. I p

ll. In a machine of the class'described, the combination with a gripper for'gripping an upper at the toe end of a last, of a tread rest for positioning the: last relatively to said gripper, and swinging members supporting said tread rest in different locationsrespectively and movable to carry the last rearwardly in a direction away from the gripper,

said members being so constructed and arranged as to impart also'to the last in its rearward movement a heightwise movement in a direction to cause the gripper to pull-the upper ove'rthe toe of the last.

42. In a machine ot the class described, the combination with a-gripper for gripping an upper at the toe end of alast, of a tread rest for positioning the last relatively to said gripper, and a plurality of swinging members for supporting said tread: rest respectively in different locations lengthwise of the last and for imparting to the tread rest and last a rearward movement relatively to the gripper, including one or more mem bers located in proximity to the forepart of the last and so arranged as to impart-to the forepart of the lastin its rearward movement also a heightwise movement to cause the gripper to pullthe upper overthetoeend of the last.

43. In amachine-of the class described, an

upper-pulling member, an operating mem her, a spring arranged to transmit movement from said operating member to the upperpulling member and yieldable in response to resistance of an upper to the force of the pull thereon, and a device for varying the stress of said spring at the will of the operator including pawl and ratchet members arranged to cooperate with each other to hold the spring under the predetermined stress.

4A. In a machine of the class described, an upper-pulling member, an operating memher, a supporting column, a spring within said column arranged to transmit movement from said operating member to the upperpulling member and yieldable in response to resistance of an upper to the force of the pull thereon, and mechanism extending to the outside of said column for enabling the operator to vary at will the stress of said spring.

45. In a machine of the class described, an upper-pulling member, an operating member, a supporting column, a spring within said columnarranged to transmit movement from said operating member to the upperpulling member and yieldable in response to resistance of an upper to the force of the pull thereon, and a pawl and ratchet device including a lever extending to the outside of said column for varying the stress of said spring.

46. In a machine of the class described, an upper-pulling member, an operating member, a coil spring arranged totransmit movement from said operating member to the upper-pulling member and yieldable in response to resistance of an upper to the force of the pull thereon, a plurality of bars extending lengthwise of said spring and arranged to act, one on another, to transmit the force of the operating member to the spring, said bars being relatively adjustable lengthwise to vary the stress of the spring, and a device for effecting the adjustment and for maintaining said bars in adjusted relation.

4-7. In a machine of the class described, an

upper-pulling member, an operating memher, a coil spring arranged to transmit movement from said operating member to the upperpulling member and .yieldable in response to resistance of an upper to the force of the pull thereon, a plurality of bars extending lengthwise of said spring and arranged to act, one on another, to transmit the force of the operating member to the spring, said bars being relatively adjustable lengthwise to vary the stress of the spring, and a pawl and ratchet device for connecting said bars in adjusted relation and including a lever for effecting the adjustment.

48. In a machine for. shaping over a last the upper of a stitchdown shoe, the combination with upper-shaping means, of means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the forepart of the last in such location as to permit the margin of the portion of the upper held by said fastening to be positioned in outturned relation against a sole on the last while the fastening is in place.

49. In a machine for pulling over a last the upper of a stitchdown shoe, the combination with the gripper for pulling the upper, of means for driving a fastening through the portion of the upper pulled by said gripper and into the last in such location as to permit the margin of that portion of the upper to be positioned in out-turned relation against a sole on the last while the fastening is in lace.

50. In a machine for shaping over a last the upper of a stitchdown shoe, the combination with means for pulling the upper over the forepart of the last, of means for driving held by said fastening to extend outwardly in substantially parallel relation to the bottom face of the last while the fastening is in place. I

51. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping an upper over a last, of means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the fore part of the last exteriorly of the last bottom to hold the upper.

52. In a machine of the class described, the combination ith means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last, of means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the forepart of the last exterior-1y of the last bottom and in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom face of the last to hold the upper.

53. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping an upper over the toe end of a last with its margin outturned from the toe end face of the last, of means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the toe end face of the last to hold the upper.

54. In a machine of the class described, means for shaping an upper over a last comprising mechanism for clamping the margin of the forepart of the upper and positioning it in outturned relation to the edge of the last bottom, and means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last in a location between said edge and the top face of the last to hold the upper.

55. In a machine of the class described, means for shaping an upper over a last comprising mechanism for clamping the margin of the forepart of the upper and positioning it in outturned relation to the edge of the last bottom, and means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom face of the last to hold the upper.

56. In a machine for shaping over a last no g1 means for driving a fastening theupper of a stitchdown shoe, means for pulling the upper over the toe of the last comprising a toe gripper constructed and arranged to clamp the margin of the upper about the toe with said margin outturned in adirection substantially parallel to the b ottom face of the forepart of the last, and means for driving a fastening through the upper and into the toe and face of the last to hold the upper.

57. In a machine of the class described, means for shaping an upper over a last comprising a gripper constructed and arranged margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom face of the last, and through the upper and into the last within the angle be tween said outturned margin and the body of the upper.

58. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last, and means arranged to be positioned by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last exteriorl of the last bottom to hold the upper. 59. n a machine of the class described, a

toe gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over the toe end of a last, and means arranged to be positioned by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the toe end face of the last to hold the upper.

60. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last, and means arranged to be positioned by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last exteriorly of the last bottom and in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom face of the last to hold the upper.

61. In a machine of the class described, means for pulling an'upper over a last comprising a gripper constructed and arranged to clamp the margin of the upper with said margin outturned in a direction substantially parallel to the bottom face of the last, and means carried by said gripper for driving a fastening through theupper and into the last in a location above said outturned marn. 62. In a machine for shaping over a last the toe end of the upper of a stitchdown shoe, a toe gripper constructed and arranged to clamp the margin of the upper at the toe with said margin outturned with respect to the toe end face of'the last, and means carried by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the toe end face of the last to hold the upper.

63. In a machine for shaping over a last the toe end of the upper of a stitchdown shoe,

7 a toe gripper constructed and arranged to clamp the margin of the upper at the toe with said margin outturned in a direction substant al y p rallel to the bottom face of trolled tacker carried 64:. In 'a machine of the classdescribed, :a gripper for'gripping and pulling an upper over a last comprising jaws constructed and arranged to grip the marginof the upper with said marginoutturned from the edgeof the last bottom, and a manually controlled tacker carried by said gripper for ('lrivin'ga "tack through the upper and into the last exteriorlyof the last bottom to hold the upper. to clamp the margin of the upper with said lgripper for gripping and pulling an upper .65. Ina machine of the classdescribed, a

over a last, means for driving a fastening from sa-id gripper into the upper and thelast exteriorly of the last bottom to hold'the upper, and means for forcing the gripper toward the last in the direction of the drive in time relation to the drivingoperation- 66. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last comprising jaws constructed and arranged to grip the margin of the upper with said margin outturned at an angle to the body of the upper, means for driving a fastening from said gripper into the upper and the last exteriorly of the last bottom in a direction substantially parallel to said out-' turned margin, and means for forcing the gripper toward the last in the direction of the drive in time relation to the driving operation.

67. In a machine of the class described, a toe gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over the toe of a last comprising jaws constructed and arranged to grip the margin of the upper with said margin outturned at an angle to the body of the upper, means for driving a fastening from said gripper into the upper and the toe end face of the last to hold the upper, and means for forcing the gripper toward the toe end face of the last in time relation tothe driving operation.

68. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last, means for driving a fastening from said exteriorly per, and means operated by said driving means for forcing the gripper toward the last in the direction of the drive.

69. In a machine of the class described, a toe gripper comprising jaws constructed and arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper with said margin outturned at an angle to the body of the upper, means for effecting relative movement of said gripper and a last both lengthwise and heightwise of the last to cause the gripper to pull the upper lengthwise and over the toe end of the last, means for driving a fastening from said gripper into the upper and. the toe end face at the last to s n the PP? and gripper into the upper and the last of the last bottom to fasten the upoperated by said driving means for forcing Y the gripper toward the toe end face of the last at the time of the drive. 1 70. In a machine of the class described, a

gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last, means carried by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last to fasten the upper, and means for forcing the gripper toward the last in the direction of the drive in time relation to the driving of the fastening.

. 71. In a machine of the class described, a gripper for gripping and pulling an upper over a last, means carried by said gripper for driving a fastening through the upper and into the last to fasten'the upper, and means operated by said driving means for .forcing'the gripper toward the last in the direction of the drive.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

A ARTHUR BATES.

was??? 

